Chadaka Thai, Burbank

Dinner for two, food only: $32 - $48

Setting: A chic, welcoming, dramatically lit space

Service: Impossibly youthful servers who do a good job

Best Dishes: Beef Waterfall, fresh spring rolls, green pear salad, Crying Tiger

“Toto, I don’t think we’re in Burbank anymore,” I whispered to no one in particular as the manager led my party to a table at Chadaka Thai. The design of this restaurant is so elegant and up-to-the-minute it would work in SoHo or SoMa. Only it’s on San Fernando Boulevard in the heart of Burbank’s Media District shopping area, and a welcome addition to the ’hood it is.

Chadaka Thai is owned by partners who have several other upscale Thai restaurants in the Southland, and their savvy is evident in this latest project. Chadaka’s interior is drop-dead gorgeous, with banquette seating done in espresso faux-leather, walls upholstered in creamy ecru fabric, and a serene incandescent Buddha glowing over the bar at the rear of the room. The space looks terrific and it also functions extremely well; even when the restaurant is full the noise level is manageable, thanks to the fabric-lined walls. But can the food live up to these stylish surroundings?

It does. Chadaka’s food is fresh, flavorful, reasonably authentic and appealing to the eye. Among the appetizers, the steamed wonton bundles (shrimp and chicken dumplings, the menu explains), are savory and full of texture, while the fresh spring rolls in their tender rice-paper wrappers pack lots of crunch and taste just-made. The Beef Waterfall is a major hit, a zingy mixture of sirloin, rice powder, red onion, chilies, lime and basil served on crisp cabbage leaf scoopers. Another winner is a salad composed of slivers of Asian pear, cashews and shrimp, tossed in a spicy-sweet dressing.

It’s tempting to graze on small plates, but don’t miss Chadaka’s version of Crying Tiger, a platter of char-grilled ribeye slices and vegetables served with a zingy dipping sauce. Among several curries, the Taley (seafood) is a standout, a suave mixture of succulent sea scallops, shrimp, calamari and mussels served with jasmine rice or tender garlic noodles.

While beer or Thai iced tea are the usual options to wash down this fare, Chadaka boasts a full bar (and a fun cocktail menu) along with a limited but well-chosen wine list. The sophisticated drink options suit the ambitions of this very grown-up restaurant.

Note: This review appeared in the November, 2005 issue of Westways.

Chadaka Thai V Robin’s Wood
310 N. San Fernando Blvd.
Burbank; (818) 848-8520
www.chadakathai.com